Dear Julie,

I just found your web site while desperately searching for help with my dog issue.  My husband and I recently adopted a 6 yr. old mini dachshund named Frankie from a shelter.  He was just neutered prior to his adoption and at the time he was sharing his cage with a min pin who was extremely scared and submissive but they seemed to be ok together.   We brought Frankie into our home which already includes our 8 yr old male Shepard mix named Doja.  We found Doja at 5 weeks old and he has been with us ever since.  Doja has been the only dog for almost 4 yrs now. Now for our big problem, Frankie has been extremely aggressive with Doja and has wanted nothing to do with him at all.  He\’s growled and gone after Doja several times.  Doja has been good for the most part however, he has gone after him a few times when attacked.  We have them in the house together but have tried to keep them separate.  Doja for the most part avoids Frankie, to the point of not coming into our bedroom to sleep (Doja sleeps in bed with us but obviously we have not allowed Frankie to do so plus he wouldn\’t be that close to Doja without attacking him).  My husband has taken them both on a walk together and they\’ve spent 2 nights in our bedroom (we keep Frankie on his leash by our bed and allow Doja to roam free). I don\’t want to keep Frankie tied but I don\’t want him to keep attacking Doja. Is it possible to get them to live together peacefully?  Can a dog that has severe dog aggression be taught to get along with other dogs? I\’m not even sure if he\’s just being fear aggressive or if Frankie has always been the only dog and just doesn\’t know how to live with one. Any suggestions you could help us with would be greatly appreciated by us all!!

Thank you so much for your time,

Joan, Pat, Doja and Frankie from Whittier, CA

Dear Joan, Pat, Doja and Frankie,

This sounds like a stressful situation and I am sorry you have to go through it.  I wonder if Frankie was good with other dogs besides the scared and submissive one in his cage?   

There are so many factors here when it comes to dominance and aggression that it might be hard to hit all the points in this one note.  Aggression is such a complex issue.

One thing I do know for sure is that it can be helpful for you to begin a positive based obedience program like the one on my site: http://www.webdogtrainer.com/join.php that can help you teach Frankie that YOU are the leader.  This will help you alter his behavior if he trusts in you as his leader.  It is hard to help any dog with any situation if you are not a clear, trusting leader to them first-and obedience accomplishes this.  Secondly, it can be helpful for you to learn about dog body language so that you can redirect behavior BEFORE it turns into aggression.  Most dogs’ signal with body language BEFORE the attack and knowing this can help you prevent the attack. 

I am not sure about allowing one dog in bed with you and the other not.  It may be a good idea to keep both dogs out of the bed so you are not signaling one to be dominant over another. 

I may sound like a broken record when I talk about exercise for dogs but it is really a huge prevention for a lot of behavioral problems.  Dogs with pent up energy release it in ways we don’t want. 

Here are some things to consider for now:

1. Try to be calm and consistent with your dogs or they may pick up on anxiety from you, which can make things worse.
2. Rule out physical causes by talking with your Veterinarian.
3. Exercise your dogs daily to the point they lay down to rest after.
4. Study dog body language to learn how to divert aggressive signals.
5. Start a positive obedience program to learn how to better communicate what behavior you expect from your dog.
6. Be careful.  Aggression can be a dangerous thing and safety needs to be considered above all else.  You may want to consider working with an in-home behavior expert when dealing with aggression.  Make sure that person has experience with aggression specifically and that you talk to references who they have worked with in similar situations in the past.  Not all dog trainers are qualified to work with aggression. 

Best of luck to you!  Let me know how it goes!

Julie

Aggression Towards Strangers: Learning Proper Socialization

Q: We have been fostering a 10 month- 1 year male Rottweiler for 3 weeks now. He was rescued from a shelter and we weren’t\’t sure the situation he came from (confiscated by animal control but not on animal abuse/cruelty charges). He has been wonderful with us since the day he arrived, a big sweetheart who wants to please, has picked up his OB training quickly etc. We have noticed that he is very leery, uncomfortable, and nervous around strangers, people he has not met that come to our home. He is fine walking around them, sitting near them etc. but if they try to pet him, he will give a warning \”shot\”. He does not bite down, it\’s just an open mouth bop, if that makes sense, like a \”back off, you are making me uncomfortable\” type thing. He does not growl before he does it. He will sit nicely, on command, and take a treat from them in a very mannerly way. He just does not want them touching him and it seems as if he really does not trust them. We know we need to socialize him and are trying to.

I\’m interested in hearing any suggestions you may have.

A:  Hello,

 Thank you for putting your time into fostering!  I really appreciate you for that.  With all signs of aggression it is always a good idea to start with a full physical exam by a Veterinarian including checking the thyroid levels.   Thyroid levels can affect anxiety.  If he has not been neutered I would highly suggest this is done as well because intact males have a history of being more aggressive.

Yes, you are correct in knowing you need to socialize him.  Often dogs that have not been socialized well can show signs of aggression towards the things they were not socialized to.  At this point he has learned that his quick warning keeps people away.  As with any type of aggression it can escalate to a bite so it is really good you are seeking advice on this behavior.  What we need to do is change his perception of someone approaching him.  This is best done through positive methods using treats.  If you use a corrective approach it could make the aggression escalate.   

Is he comfortable and happy in a crate?  If so, I would have him be in a crate when you have visitors and have them casually walk by and drop a treat at his feet.  Instruct them not to reach out to touch him, just toss it inside to him.  So over time he starts to realize that when a stranger approaches he gets a yummy treat.  Do not put him in the uncomfortable position of having to put up with people petting him yet when he isn’t ready.  If he isn’t crate trained that might be something to work on with him and in the meantime you can have him on a leash in a relaxed manner in a down position while the visitors casually walk by to drop the treat.

I would also continue obedience training using positive methods and treats.  Practice obedience near strangers so that he also begins to associate that he is getting rewarded for doing well when they are nearby.  Do not expect to have people approach him and touch him immediately right now, it is stressful for him and can also be dangerous for your visitors.  You want him to experience positive feelings towards visitors right now. 

Also, instruct visitors not to approach him to pet him, instead they should wait until he approaches them.  This is the proper way to pet all dogs actually-waiting for their approach first.

And, I do have to warn of course that if at anytime you feel nervous or fearful it would be a good idea to practice the socializing with a trained professional in person. 

He is a lucky dog to have found someone to foster him that cares and wants to help, so thank you for being that person!

Let me know you received this and I look forward to hearing back from you!

Julie

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Julie,
Thank you very much for your response.
 
When he was pulled from the shelter, he went immediately to the vet and had a complete blood panel done, physical and was neutered. He was also temperament tested before leaving the shelter and passed with flying colors.
 
He is crate trained and he is crated while we are at work. When we first got him, he was very skittish on walks, leaves blowing, a shadow etc. He now walks nicely and can pass by joggers, kids riding bikes etc. and he is fine. My boyfriend took him on a field trip to Petsmart last night and he was skittish like he was on his first walks, but was not fearful or nervous, just curious. Several people approached and asked to pet him and my boyfriend told them he is a dog in training and gets nervous in new situations and that it would be best if they didn’t. They were fine with that, chatted a few moments and then when on their way. The cashier gave him a treat and he sat and took it nicely.
 
I’m not fearful of him, he’s been wonderful with us. Although I can say that I do get a bit nervous about people coming to the house, or even if we are out and about with him, them wanting to pet him. My boyfriend is unfazed by it so he took him to Petsmart and I stayed home so he wouldn’t key off of me being nervous.
Sometimes if he thinks he did something bad, he will look at us with his head ducked and then roll on his back exposing his belly. Of course he didn’t do anything bad and we were not doing anything that would make him think that he did. We do have two dogs of our own, one Rottie that we rescued that had alot of issues (SA, lunging at joggers and bikers) who he gets along well with, although my senior would rather he didn’t bother her, but she’s a trooper. 
 
I greatly appreciate your imput. He’s a great dog and we really want to find him the perfect forever home!

==

Hi,
 
It’s great you are both putting this time into him and that you have already brought him a long way!  Good for you!!  And it sounds like you recognize the affect your mood can have on him so you are one step ahead of many!  It sounds like he is very submissive.  He would really benefit a lot from a positive training program to build his confidence.  This may also help curb the aggression if he feels more secure with himself.  I would practice obedience training with him on a daily basis using rewards such as treats and praise.  It would be a great thing to do with him when he is showing the signs of of being uneasy too. 
 
Good luck with it all!
 
Julie
 
 

Hi there,

I have a mature Chihuahua (age unknown, but he has some gray on his face) I was fostering for a breed rescue group, who I wasn\’t able to find an adoptive family for, so I kept him. Before he entered the rescue program he was a stray dog, we think abandoned. I have him now for about 6 years.

Sammy\’s \”issue\” is movement. If anyone other than me moves (gets up from sitting, walks around the house, etc.) he has an absolute fit. He never bites, but he charges the moving person, hysterically barking his shrill bark the entire time. I have two other dogs, and they look at Sammy like he\’s insane, when he does this. Even they can\’t believe his behavior. If the other dogs get up follow the moving person, Sammy has a fit too.

This behavior is worst in the evening, after dinner. As the night goes on, Sammy is less likely to have a \”moving fit\”.

We\’ve tried holding Sammy down firmly but gently, releasing him only when he relaxes.  Exiting the room backwards while keeping eye contact with Sammy, and squirting Sammy with water while saying \”Quiet\”, but nothing breaks him of this habit.

Sammy is really attached to me. If he\’s a \”one person dog\”, then I\’m the person. Should I be the one to be disciplining him, or should the person he\’s charging at during the \”moving fit\” be the one to offer a correction? Sammy is fine when I\’m the only person that\’s home. If I leave the house, but other people are home, he\’s fine too. I seem to be the catalyst for the problem!

Any info or suggestions you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Aside from this really odd habit, Sammy is a sweet little dog.

Thank you for your help,

Patti

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Hello Patti!

Thank you for being a foster parent and then stepping up even further to adopt and bring him into your “forever” family!  I know it isn’t easy and I appreciate people like you in the world!  We can improve dog’s lives, one dog at a time!

It sounds like Sammy is “protecting” you, because this behavior only happens when you are around.  This type of protection can be very stressful for him as well as dangerous if it were to lead to a bite, so it is great that you are looking for a way to change the behavior. 

Protective Aggression is the defense of something of value.  In this case, you are the object of value.  Protective aggression is often a result of anxiety, so it is important to first rule out physical causes with your Veterinarian.  Your mention of the behavior being worse after dinner also makes me pause and wonder about Sammy’s hormone levels, or even possibly pain levels in the evening.  I would definitely talk with your Vet about these details specifically.  Also make sure to neuter your dog if you haven’t already, as intact dogs can be more aggressive. 

Punishment of this type of behavior can cause the aggression to get worse.  The best idea is to try to change the way the dog perceives the threat to lower their anxiety about the threat (in this case the threat is other people moving near you). 

Here are a few things to try:

1. It looks as though your dog has determined that he has to be your leader and take care of you.  The responsibility of taking care of you every minute you are around is very stressful and will age him quickly.  If you begin some positive obedience training with him on a daily basis he will feel happier because he will understand that you are leader and he can be taken care of by you and not have to “protect you” and be on constant guard of you.  Can you imagine how stressful that would be to be on guard of someone and worried about every movement nearby? 
2. Start allowing affection between you and your dog only on your terms.  If he jumps onto your lap for example, stand up and don’t look at him or pet him.  Now YOU can give him attention or invite him on your lap on your terms, not his.  The idea is that you start to set some limits with his attachment to you as well as establishing your leadership. 
3. Give your friends and family treats and practice having them give your dog treats just before they get up and again when they stand up and begin to walk away.  So your dog starts to associate their movement with a treat, instead of it being a negative it will turn into a positive. 
4. Make sure he does NOT get a treat or attention during his “fits”.  Do not look at him, touch him, or talk to him during a fit or you will be in turn rewarding the bad behavior.
5. Try to relax because you probably tense up during the process because you anticipate it and that can cause further anxiety in your dog.  Do everything you can to relax, take a deep breath, and close your eyes, whatever it takes to stop signaling anything to your dog.
6. Be consistent.  If you work on this with every visitor right now there is a good chance you can change the behavior.  For new visitors you can first have him meet them outside on a walk before bringing them inside together. 
7. You can do it!!  I know you can!!

As with any form of aggression it is important to be careful, especially around children.  If you are concerned with the behavior leading to a bite then keep him behind a baby gate that he can see through during your visits.

Best of luck!  Let me know how it turns out!  If you have any further questions don’t hesitate to let me know.

Julie

Subject: Please Help! Fear Aggression!
Dear Julie,
I have a very sweet 4 month old foster puppy. She was rescued probably about 2 weeks ago and, though once she’s used to you, she’s awesome, she has fear aggression! I was with my last foster yesterday and my new foster was there too and she showed her teeth, curled her lip, tucked her tail and backed away yelping and growling. What should I do?! She is also nervous around new people, so suggestions for helping her get through that would be awesome too. No one who comes to visit her is going to want her if she is scared of them and fear aggressive! Please help me! She is very people loving and good with dogs when she knows them, but if she doesn’t they’re big , scary monsters! PLEASE, HELP!
-Colleen

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Hello Colleen,
It’s great what you are doing; I applaud you for your efforts with rescue dogs! Good for you! With fear, it is important to create more confidence in the dog. Through obedience training you can do that. Dogs also can feel overwhelmed in our human world so it is important to make them feel secure by taking the position of leader. If a dog feels there is a secure, confident leader taking care of things around them, then they don’t feel that they have to be the ones to control everything. By becoming your dogs leader, and being in charge of the surroundings, including new dogs and new people, your dog will learn to trust your judgment and not feel so scared.
Obedience training also helps establish your leadership role with the dog as well.

For fearful dogs, use high value treats (small bits of food that your dog goes crazy for-like cooked chicken breast, or deli meats). Ask your dog to sit before you feed them their meal, then treat for the sit. Ask your dog to sit before getting pet, then treat for the sit and pet them. The idea here is that several times throughout the day you ask something of your dog and reward them for doing it. What that does is boost their self-confidence. Make it fun and rewarding for you dog. If they are showing signs of fear, try to divert their attention and ask them to perform some obedience, like sits or downs for example, then reward for doing the task.

Also, make sure you are not petting your dog when they are showing signs of fear or aggression or else you will be rewarding that behavior. They should only be receiving praise and attention from you when they are in a positive, calm state.

Don’t force other dogs and new people on your dog at this point. Try to do things at a distance that they are comfortable with. Say for example they show fear at 200 feet from the person or dog; then do some obedience at 250 feet from it, rewarding with those high value treats. Then, over time, try to work up to going closer, each time measuring their level of fear. If done correctly, your dog will begin to change the association of fear when they see the object to pleasure, because they’ll be receiving these nice treats and pleasing you, their leader.

Over time, you should be able to get closer and closer to the object of fear while the dog is still maintaining a level of confidence and security. You must read your dog and work at their pace. It is also important that you maintain a feeling of calm confidence. If you feel worried, scared, or anything negative your dog will feel that from you and either not trust you or the situation. So, do it at a pace you are both comfortable with.

Keep up the good work!
I have so much information on my training website: www.webdogtrainer.com- everything from beginning obedience to advance training, dealing with behavior problems and understanding a dogs mind on my site. I think you’d find a lot of value in the site and I’d be there to help you along the way should you need it.

I hope the information above has been helpful to you! Let me know how it goes and if you need anything else!
Julie
www.webdogtrainer.com
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Julie,
Thank you SO much! That is very helpful! I will try those suggestions with her! Looks like a great website, I think I’ll join! Thanks again! Colleen

Tips:
How to break up a dogfight. Dogfights can be very dangerous and you should be extremely careful to avoid getting bitten yourself. You should NEVER reach in and grab a dog’s collar to stop a fight. When a dog is in the middle of a fight they may bite at anything that comes near their head. It is best to have more than one person should you need to break up the fight. Each one of you should calmly grab the dogs back legs and pick them up (like a wheelbarrow) and begin to walk in a circle away from each other. That way the dogs have to move their front paws away from each other in order to prevent falling on their face. You then should immediately separate the dogs into different areas and go cool off yourself. Do not scream or yell, this can cause even more aggression.

Julie Bjelland Lokhandwala is the founder of webDogTrainer, LLC and has created the Popular Online Dog Training Guide and Consultation:
www.webdogtrainer.com